Picture credit - Calum I MacLean |
Back in 2010 (though it seems like yesterday!), I wrote a post about Eoligarry House on Barra. This was the incongrously large Georgian house pictured above built about 1790 and demolished in the 1970s which was briefly the residence of the MacNeils of Barra between when they vacated Kisimul Castle and when they sold the island in 1838. The house and surrounding farm were later sold to two brothers called MacGillivray around 1900 (their father having been the tenant since the 1840s) and they retained the house when the farm was acquired by the Board of Agriculture for Scotland in 1919 to be divided into crofts.
My reason for revisiting Eoligarry is that today I came across a description of it in the late 1930s in a book called "Hebridean Journey" by Halliday Sutherland available at Archive.org:-
At Eoligary are the ruins of an ancient chapel and an old burial ground, but near by was Eoligary House, a bleak, square building whose owner was the last of his race and the house the last of his possessions. His collection of stuffed birds had caused me to knock on the door, and the knocking echoed as it might have echoed from an empty house. The day was warm and sunny, but as l stood on the doorstep I remembered the phantom listeners in Walter de la Mare’s poem:
“Hearkening in an air stilled and shaken
By the lonely traveller's call."
Soft shuffling steps answered my knocking, and an old bent woman let me in to a carpetless hall walled with cases of stuffed birds, and then into what once had been a dining-room. There was a mahogany table, chairs, a bare side-board, and stuffed birds in glass cases on the walls were the only decorations. There was no carpet in the room, and it must have been years since a fire had been lit in the empty grate, or windows had been opened, because the room smelt of mildew, damp, and dust. At last the owner of the house appeared, a tall, pallid, gaunt old man, who gave me a chair and drew one from the table for himself. I mentioned the stuffed birds, but in them he was no longer interested, because after his brother's death the best specimens had been given to the museum at Inverness. He talked incessantly of people and of times I had never known, and was petulant when I revealed my ignorance. His grievance was that no one ever came to see him, but from what I heard from the postman neither he nor his forebears had ever sought friendship in the days of their manhood. For one thing only was I grateful, namely that he neither offered me food nor drink in that house, and at the end of half an hour I rose and declared that I must leave him lest the postman returned without me. The old man asked me to call again, but as I left his decaying abode I knew that I would never return.
The old man who owned the house would have been the surviving MacGillivray brother. He died in 1939, very soon after his visit from Halliday Sutherland.
Eoligarry House in a cameo role in a film about Barra on the Moving Image Archive (at 8.32 and 8.44) |
Neil, have appreciated your work for a long time, but never had reason to add to it. But lately I bought some of Alasdair Alpin Macgregor's books for information about Ensay, once owned by some distant Stewart relatives, and he provides a more congenial account of the last MacGillivray of Eoligarry than Dr. Sutherland's account of him c. 1938. Macgregor's is in "Summer Days in the Western Isles" (no date, preface dated Jan 1929). pp 283-4: "And now to the Isle of Barra, where there is a road possessing all the beauty and charm of the foregoing island roads, and wanting in none of their interests. And that road is the road from the clachan of Castlebay to the old farm of Eoligarry. ...At the farm of Eoligarry you will receive hospitality in Highland style at the hands of a host of more than three score years and ten. And it is he who, at your departure, will send you forth with a benediction, and an assurance that you are welcome to return to Eoligarry whenever time and opportunity be favourable." Between pp.303-309 Macgregor writes of "Eoligarry: An Old Hebridean Home", and its owners: (p 314-5): "My first visit to Eoligarry was ... one day in August, a year or two ago ... A deluge of rain accompanied me on my second excursion some little time later. On this visit I discovered my host making mental preparations for his journey to a forthcoming Mod at Oban, and recapitulating in his mind all the old cronies he was likely to be meeting at that assembly. On a table, that he believes to have belonged to the McNeils of Barra, he dined me well - so well, in sooth, that, being escorted by no Boswell, I was in even greater danger of forgetting that I was ever to depart from Eoligarry than was Dr. Johnson at Dunvegan. During our prolonged dining, Mr. MacGillivray discoursed at no short length on the doubtful economics of small-holdings, and on the days that preceded the breaking-up of farms in the Highlands and Islands for the settlement of crofts on which, he contended, there was barely a living. And, furthermore, he argued that this change had been for the worse, in respect that it had interfered with the granting of that hospitality to which every wayfarer in the Isles was both welcome and accustomed. To-day there remain in the Outer Hebrides scarcely any tacksmen who are in a position to entertain in the old Highland style of a generation or two ago. And then, again, the average crofter - though he be ever so willing - can neither afford nor supply such accommodation as the casual sojourner felt himself entitled to beyond the threshold of the typical tacksman in times gone by. ...p:316 : "I fancy Mr. MacGillivray must be a tacksman after the pattern of Lachlan MacKinnon of Coire Chatachan - that genial Highland host who at all times was ready to make welcome the stranger, and aye eager to be entertaining. As I came away from Eoligarry on this occasion, my host stood in the doorway, waving me a Highland adieu and a beannachd." p.317: "Within Eoligarry House you will find the finest private natural history museum in all the Highlands and Islands. ... As might be expected of the nephew of the late William MacGillivray, who was Professor of Natural History in Marischal College, Aberdeen, my host at Eoligarry is an authority on ornithology, and has made not a few valuable presentations of birds and eggs to various natural history museums."
ReplyDeleteThese MacGillivrays were not overly fond of my Stewarts, but being more than three-score-and-ten myself, it seemed only fair to Lachlan MacGillivray to balance Dr. Sutherland's unpleasant account of an old bloke.
Great piece of info Gavin, thanks for adding it.
DeleteThe song Marion MacLean of Eologarry is not mentioned. Any history on this?
ReplyDeleteSorry, don't know
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