Saturday, February 13, 2021

The Loch Maree road

I'm a bit OCD about knowing the dates of things. This isn't a new tendency, either, for I recently discovered a clutch of letters I received in response to enquiries I'd written in 1984 (before Mr Google was even a twinkle in his parents' eye) to various bodies seeking information about the dates of certain projects in Wester Ross. 

There's one from the Hydro Board about hydro-electric schemes and another from Howard Doris on the chronology of oil platform construction at Kishorn. There's also a letter from Highland Regional Council about the dates of certain road improvements. Unfortunately, they couldn't supply any dates for some phases of the Loch Maree and North Applecross roads before 1975 (when HRC came into existence in succession to Ross & Cromarty County Council) but they helpfully suggested I contact Mr Hector MacLeod, of Strath, Gairloch, retired roads supervisor, who would have "intimate detailed knowledge of roadworks from the early 1930s". And there's a reply from Mr MacLeod, in his beautiful handwriting, with the requested details.

Nor is this information entirely useless. A year or two ago, I was contacted by someone who'd seen one of my photos on Flickr of the road along Loch Maree (the A832) which had a caption alluding to its phased reconstruction in the 1970s. He wanted to know if I could supply the date of the works on a certain section of the road because he was a geologist and it was important to him to know for exactly how long a specimen of rock in his possession which had been blasted out by the roadworks had been oxidising (or something like that!) in the sunlight. And as it happened, I was able to the answer his question from the information so kindly supplied by Hector MacLeod 35 years ago! So, and in the interests of the advancement of science, it's perhaps time to lay out the whole of this arcane knowledge for the benefit of posterity. 

Look at the map below (click to enlarge). From A to B (Kinlochewe to about a mile west of Bridge of Grudie), the road was rebuilt (i.e. upgraded from single to double track) between summer 1966 and August 1972 by Ross & Cromarty County Council's direct labour. I think I'm right in saying (but anyone with local knowledge can correct me) that the work started at Kinlochewe (point A) and went northwards. I also recall this stretch being known locally as "MacIlhinny's Highway", I assume in memory of an Irish member of the labour force but, again, local knowledge can correct me.

From B to C, the road was built between January 1973 and October 1974 by R J McLeod (Glasgow), contractors.

From D (Lochmaree Hotel) to E (about 200 yards before Victoria Falls), the road was built between November 1974 and April 1976 by K Stewart (Strathpeffer), contractors.

From C to D (Lochmaree Hotel), the road was built between October 1978 and July 1980, also by Stewarts. Note, I'm not sure if the road directly in front of the hotel was part of the D-E project in 1974-76 or part of the C-D project in 1978-80: I think the latter but, as usual happy to be corrected.

The stretch from E (Victoria Falls) west to F (the top of Slattadale) postdates my enquiries in the 1980s but was carried out in the early 90s (anyone know the exact year?) also by Stewarts.

For the rest of this post, we'll do a photographic tour of the old Loch Maree road from my own photos and postcard collection starting at Kinlochewe and going west towards Gairloch. Click the images to enlarge and under some of the old pictures, you can click a link through to the equivalent view today on Google Streetview. First, though, a bit of history. 

The road from Kinlochewe to Slattadale was first built in the late 1840s as part of a scheme to provide employment to local people left destitute by the potato famine of the mid 1840s. Half of the cost (£2,527:8s:6d) was provided by the Edinburgh Destitution Board (from charitable donations raised in southern Scotland and abroad) and the other half by Gairloch Estate as the local landowner. (More about that here. Other roads in Wester Ross were built on this basis around the same time, including those from Kerrysdale Bridge to Badachro on south side of Loch Gairloch (B8056) and from Dundonnell to Braemore (A832), the latter still being known as the Destitution Road today.) 

Prior to the 1840s, there had been no road capable of taking wheeled traffic along the side of Loch Maree and the usual mode of transport was by boat along the loch from a pier at a point about half a mile from its head called Rubha an Fhamhair - think I've spelt that right! It's Gaelic for Giant's Point and is anglicised by the Ordnance Survey to Rhu Noa. Even after the road had been built, travel along the loch by steamer was still possible until 1911 when it was finally eclipsed by road travel with the advent of the internal combustion engine (further blog post about the Loch Maree Steamer to come soon). Anyway, here's the old road going past Rhu Noa with the remains of the steamer pier still visible:-

The A832 at Rhu Noa. Same view today here
From Rhu Noa to where the road turns away from the loch to Bridge of Grudie, the old single track road ran on a different alignment from the current road built in the late 60s/early 70s. It was lower and closer to the shore and for long stretches was carried on retaining walls built out into the loch. These are still there although now in badly deteriorating condition. But they're beautiful works of art and I don't know why they're not protected as listed buildings or something and maintained to create an alternative cycle path/walkway along the lochside. These walls were one of the first things I made a beeline for to photograph when I got my first camera in 1984:-
 

     

Below is the same stretch of road as the last photo when it was still in use. Note the same pine tree! The current road is at about the level of the top of the bank on the right in these views.

 

 

That last photo suggests that this stretch of the old road winding along the shore carried out on retaining walls was called "The Pass" - I didn't know that. Totally unsuitable for 20th century tourist traffic so you can see how this was an early candidate for upgrading in the 1960s when most of the rest of the A832 to Gairloch west from Garve remained single track for many more years after. Below is a photo of similar retaining walls still in use today beside Loch Shieldaig on the road from Kerrysdale Bridge along the south side of Loch Gairloch. These were built at the same time (late 1840s) as the ones on the Loch Maree road:-
 
Back beside Loch Maree, further north, at Bridge of Grudie, a new road bridge over the River Grudie was built when the road was reconstructed around 1970 but the old bridge was left standing beside it. I always used to be puzzled by the old bridge in that, on its east (Kinlochewe) side, it seemed to be hard up against a rock face involving the road in a very sharp right turn immediately you'd crossed the bridge. I guess that was due to the exigencies of the only available bit of solid rock to foot the bridge on. You can see this here and on the 1902 Ordnance Survey Six Inch Map:-
 
Picture credit: National Library of Scotland
Below are the two bridges with the old one in the foreground:-


Below is looking back (east towards Kinlochewe) from Bridge of Grudie across Loch Maree to Slioch.
 
And here's a similar view taken in the 1960s when the road was still single track:-
 
Picture credit: Tim Hayman
And here's the approach to the old bridge viewed from the west (towards Kinlochewe):-
 
Same view today here
A few hundred yards after Bridge of Grudie continuing west in the direction of Gairloch, the new road diverges (here) from the route of the old road to follow a line closer to the loch. The old road remains clearly traceable for about two miles and can be walked along.
 
The old and new roads west of Bridge of Grudie. The passing places on the old road are still clearly visible.
Here's a selection of views between Bridge of Grudie and the Lochmaree Hotel ordered roughly south to north. In the first one, I didn't know they had the big passing place signs with PASSING PLACE written on them as early as when this card was posted in 1970:-

Same view today here
Next are two pictures I took on the old road looking south in 1984. Note the old telegraph poles - you don't see them anymore:-
 
 
In the picture below, which is at point C on the map above, the new road now describes a straighter line nearer the loch bypassing the curve:-
 
Same position on the new road here
And the next picture is just about a couple of hundred yards further on in the direction of the Lochmaree Hotel. I remember a particularly nasty tourist traffic snarl up at exactly this spot in the mid-70s before this stretch was improved involving irate caravaners shouting at each other and one gentleman even trying to rock my parents' trailer with boat thereon sideways off the road leading to some choice language from my father. [EDIT 21/2/21 - see the Addendum at the end of this post for a link to footage of this stretch of the old road.] The new road is now on a line further away from the viewpoint:-
 
Same position on the new road here

Next, just a mile or so further on, here's the Lochmaree Hotel when the old single track road used to run right past its front door. The new road is realigned about a hundred yards to the left:-

Equivalent view on the new road here

Here's a little stretch of the old road just before the hotel looking back east in the direction of Kinlochewe I photographed in 1984:-

Next, a couple of shots of the old road between the hotel and Victoria Falls:-

Approximately the same position today here


Next are two shots I took in 1984 of where the new road then ended just before Victoria Falls until it was continued on up Slattadale in the early 90s:-

 

Next is Garbhaig (pronounced GARA-vaig, I believe) Bridge beside the Victoria Falls in 1984 when it was still on the main road. I think the bridge still stands but is now bypassed since the road up Slattadale was improved in the early 90s.


And next, a couple of hundred yards past the bridge looking back towards it in 1984:-

Same view today here

Next, a view further up Slattadale going towards Gairloch about a mile west of Garbhaig Bridge in the 1980s when the road was still single track. This is looking east back down the hill in the direction of Kinlochewe:-

Same view today here
Compare with the postcard view below from approximately the same position before the trees had been planted. Most of these trees have since been felled and the views over Loch Maree have been opened up again.

And finally, looking up Slattadale (west towards Gairloch) near the top of the hill in the 1980s when the road was still single track:-
 
Same view today here

Well, I hope you enjoyed that retrospective drive along Loch Maree. I certainly enjoyed the opportunity to look through every single photo of it I've got in my archive (and weed out some of the many duplicates!) If anyone can add anything or make any corrections, please leave a comment.

Addendum 21/2/21

I'm grateful to Alex Gray for drawing my attention to this film in the National Library of Scotland's Moving Image Archive. It's amateur footage in December 1939 of a Bofors anti-aircraft gunnery unit going from the east along the A832 to the naval base at Loch Ewe. At 17.14 is exactly the stretch of the old road along Loch Maree between the Hotel and Bridge of Grudie I referred to where I remember a snarl up of tourist traffic in the mid 1970s (inevitably rather grainy still from the film below):-


Here are the various places seen in the film so far as I could identify them:-

Going west:-

03.44 - Loch Garve

04.10 - approaching Grudie Bridge 

04.35 - Achnasheen

05.05 - Loch a' Chroisg (note the old style passing place signs)

05.25 - top of Glen Docherty

06.17 - Loch Maree

06.37 - Loch a' Chroisg again

06.51 - Rhu Noa, Loch Maree

07.32 - where the truck is off the road is between Inverewe and Tournaig - about here  

09.37-15.37 - Loch Ewe between Tournaig and Aultbea

Going back east:-

15.48 - Loch Maree at Tollie

16.00 - Loch Tollie

16.10 - coming down the hill into Gairloch

16.24 - approaching Kerry Bridge

16.26 - Glen Kerry

16.49 - going down Slattadale

from here to 18.15 - going along Loch Maree

18.17 - top of Glen Docherty??


Monday, February 1, 2021

Ballachulish Part 5 - Decline, fall & rehabilitation

Despite the seemingly endless litigation they were embroiled in at the time (as described in Part 4), the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries saw the peak in production from the Ballachulish slate quarries.

Workers at Ballachulish Quarry: picture credit Canmore. You can see a higher resolution version of this image here

The high point was 1897 when slate production in Argyll (i.e. including Easdale and the surrounding "slate islands" as well as Ballachulish) topped 33,000 tons or about 15 million slates. A further boost to the industry came in 1903 with the opening of a railway to Ballachulish to carry the slates away more efficiently than by sea as hitherto: one of the last of the Victorian railway building era, the line branched off the Oban railway at Connell Ferry and crossed Loch Etive over a new bridge.

Railways in red - note that, until the 1960s, the Oban railway ran from Stirling via Callander rather than from Glasgow up Loch Lomond-side as it does today.
Ballachulish Station in the 1920s. Note the quarry and pile of waste slate behind at top right

But despite the investment in the railway, Scottish slate production declined dramatically from the turn of the century high during the ten years to the beginning of the First World War in 1914. There were two reasons for this: first, competition from cheaper slate imported from Wales and abroad. These imports were also by now thought to be of better quality (in terms of the all important regularity of size of the slates produced rather than the raw material). And ironically, it was development of the railway network which allowed the penetration of imported slate into the market.

The second reason for the decline was growing preference for cheaper (but less durable) clay and concrete roof tiles. The Easdale quarries closed in 1911 (although slate production on the neighbouring slate islands - at Cullipool and Toberonochy on Luing and at Balvicar on Seil - continued). By 1913, the all Argyll annual production had slumped to 6,200 tons and then the Ballachulish quarries closed for the duration of the War (I assume because the workers were away in the army). Slate quarrying resumed after the conflict but the industry was by now a shadow of its former self with the all Argyll production running at about 8,000 tons a year: the application of new technologies such as drilling by compressed air were a bit too little, too late. The Ballachulish quarries finally closed in 1955, followed by closure on the slate islands in the early 1960s. 

Clay (left) and concrete (right) put slate out of business. Picture credits Sandtoft Roof Tiles and Kate Otterson 
With its biggest employer gone, the village of Ballachulish went into sustained decline just like a mining village after its pit has closed. To add to its misery, the railway from Oban closed in 1966 as part of the Beeching Cuts of the UK rail network. But if the employment and transport options diminished during the 20th century, at least the housing improved. The rows of whitewashed quarrier's cottages which had been so admired in the previous century were now seen as cramped and insanitary. They were progressively demolished and replaced by Council housing. Today, there seem to be only two of the original cottages left in Ballachulish, those visible on Google Streetview here. They're not even listed buildings either - perhaps they ought to be. If you want to get a flavour of a 19th century Scottish slate quarrying village, you have to go to Eileanabeich on Seil or Cullipool or Toberonochy (in all of where the houses are no doubt mostly second homes and teeteringly expensive).

New houses (foreground) begin to replace the old (background) at Ballachulish. Note the piles of quarry waste at bottom left.
But not long after it was dubbed "Scotland's Dirtiest Village" in 1973 (as mentioned in Part 1), things began to look up for Ballachulish. In December 1975, a road bridge across Loch Leven was opened to replace the age old Ballachulish ferry. This had the effect of drawing more tourist traffic through the village instead going round the head of the loch through Kinlochleven to avoid the ferry queues. (Kinlochleven suffered correspondingly, of course - I have never been there since the bridge opened - but at least it still had its aluminium smelter.) Thus began a gradual rehabilitation of Ballachulish.

Amongst other improvements, the biggest quarry - the East Quarry - has been landscaped and is now home to a tourist trail with interpretation boards scoring 4.5 out of 5 on Tripadvisor. In fact, there are now so many trees around Ballachulish that the quarries can be hard to spot unless you know where to look for them: this whole series of posts was prompted by having seen a remark from a guest at The Isles of Glencoe hotel that she hadn't noticed them! (The West Quarries today house a garage and Council roads depot - see here)

Landscaping around the derelict East Quarry: picture credit malcolmqp
The long derelict railway station (noted for being "the best of a series of station buildings in the Glasgow Style, with distinctive swept roofs decorated with red ridge tiles and ball finials, stylised buttressing, half-circular windows and curvy platform fenestration") is now the doctors' surgery.

The railway station turned medical practice: picture credit Tom Parnell
As far as ownership of Ballachulish Estate - all the land along the south shore of Loch Leven from about half a mile west of Glencoe Village as far as about two miles west of Ballachulish Bridge and back up to the ridge of Beinn a' Bheithir ("Ben a Vair") - is concerned, I mentioned in earlier episodes that this had been in the hands of the Stewart of Ballachulish family since the first half of the 16th century until 1862 when it passed to a Yorkshireman Captain Tennant and from him to Sir George Beresford in 1871. From him it passed to his wife, Lady Elizabeth, in 1873 and then upon her death in 1898 to the Beresfords' daughter, Marcia. She died in 1908 after which I've not been able to discover much about the ownership of the estate except that her husband, Captain Francis Beresford-Drummond, is recorded in directories as still living at Ballachulish House in 1920s. He died in 1926 and, as the Beresford-Drummonds had no children, I'm guessing the estate would have been sold shortly afterwards (probably quite cheaply due to the slump in royalties from the slate quarrying at this time). It was probably around this time as well that the Forestry Commission acquired a large proportion of the inland parts of the estate.

Ballachulish House was bought for £900,000 in 2009 by Russian businessman Alexander Shapovalov without even viewing it. In 2015 he was being prosecuted in Russia when he fled to Britain and claimed asylum. Russia attempted to extradite him back but he opposed that on the basis that, having made an enemy of Vladimir Putin, he feared being murdered in jail. Extradition was eventually refused in 2018 and asylum granted in 2020. Shapovalov's legal troubles are not over, though - in 2015 he attracted suspicion by attempting to withdraw £50,000 in Bank of England £50 notes from the Royal Bank of Scotland in Inverness. As a result, his assets - including Ballachulish House - have been frozen pending a "civil recovery" action by Crown Office (Scottish equivalent of Crown Prosecution Service), that is to say they will be confiscated if proved to have been "obtained through unlawful conduct". This case has yet to be concluded but in the meantime you can stay in Ballachulish House through Airbnb (worth clicking through to that link for the lovely photos of the house). 

Ballachulish House: picture credit Airbnb
What of the slate industry today? For many years, the demand for slate for repairs to the roofs of such slated buildings as remained could be satisfied by re-using slates from buildings being demolished. But with the passage of time, there are fewer and fewer slated buildings being demolished while the number surviving (often those of high heritage value) has stabilised. Most slate for newbuilds is imported from Spain nowadays (although it continues to be quarried in small quantities in England and Wales), but the problem of sourcing slates to repair existing roofs is complicated by the fact that each quarry produces slates of subtly different colours: Ballachulish slates are deep blue-black compared with Easdale's gunmetal grey, for example. So you can't mix them on the same roof and recycled slates as a source have almost run out now. That being so, Historic Scotland (the quango responsible for advising on built heritage) commissioned a study in 2016 into the feasibility of reopening two Scottish slate quarries -  including Khartoum Quarry at Ballachulish - on a small scale. (Khartoum is one of the smaller quarries at Ballachulish, behind the main East Quarry about half a mile up Gleann an Fhiodh and now surrounded by Forestry Commission plantations.) I'm not sure what, if anything, has or will come of this (nothing, I suspect). In the meantime HS recommends slate from the Cabrera Mountains of north west Spain as being the closest analogue to Ballachulish slate.

Spanish slate quarry: picture credit: LBS

Sunday, October 18, 2020

Ballachulish Part 4 - Doctors & and legal battles

 

Looking north over Ballachulish village and quarry to Loch Leven. Picture credit: MM0HLQ

 

We ended Part 3 in 1862 when "from pecuniary difficulties" Dugald, the 7th Stewart laird of Ballachulish, sold the estate after it had been in his family for more than 300 years. 

The purchaser was a Yorkshireman, Captain Robert Tennant. This was part of a common pattern for Highland estates in the mid 19th century - families who had owned them for generations succumbed to debt and had to sell them to non-resident outsiders, often Victorian nouveaux riches. Captain Tennant seems to have been more than usually non-resident, though, in that he only ever visited his new property once, for two weeks in the autumn of 1865. The rest of the time Ballachulish House was the residence of his factor (Scottish word for estate manager). Tennant's ownership was brief, however. In in 1871 he sold the estate to an Irish baronet, Sir George Beresford. His tenure as owner was even shorter, though, for he died two years later in 1873 leaving the estate in his will to trustees to hold it for Lady Beresford's lifetime use and then on her death to pass to their only surviving child, Mrs Marcia Drummond.

The Beresfords' ownership of Ballachulish Estate in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was punctuated by a bewildering succession of litigations involving the estate and its slate quarry. These are interesting as preserving snippets of historical detail which might otherwise have been lost but at the same time they can be frustrating. That's because the law reports only narrate such of the facts as are necessary for the decision of the legal point in issue. That's good for lawyers but annoying for historians as it leaves some of the story untold. But with that caveat, here's the tale of the legal entanglements of the owners of Ballachulish Estate and their quarrymaster tenants.

 

Looking east from Ballachulish village and quarry towards Glen Coe. Picture by kind permission of Neil Barr

 

Despite his noble connections (he was a cousin of the Marquess of Waterford), Sir George Beresford appears to have been heavily in debt. When he died, Ballachulish Estate was mortgaged for £48,000 (about £5 million in today's money) and his creditors pressed his trustees (his widow and her brothers) for payment. Help appeared to be at hand, however, in the form of their solicitor in Glasgow, one George Gardner. Also their factor, he arranged new loans but the Beresfords were still not clear and required a further £6,500. Gardner obtained this from his father, James, who also appeared to do them a big favour by taking on the lease of the slate quarry when it was given up by the previous tenant, Alexander Pitcairn, in 1874. Prior to taking on the quarry in 1863, Pitcairn had the track record of having been the manager at the Easdale slate quarries but James Gardner's background was as a butcher! He also proposed to take into business with him at the quarry his younger son John, hitherto a lard and tallow merchant, so it was perhaps as well that he continued the employment of Pitcairn's quarry manager, John Ferguson, to guide them (at an annual salary of £200: about £23,000 in today's money) . 

The rent paid by the quarry tenant was obviously the Beresfords' biggest source of income but it was paid by James Gardner to his older son, George, the solicitor, as the estate factor. But by 1875 it appears that George had become neglectful of his factorial duties. The Beresfords put pressure on him through his father who agreed to take over George's role as factor. That meant that James Gardner as quarry tenant was now paying the rent to himself as his landlords' factor and if you think that sounds like a situation loaded with the potential for trouble then you'd be right. Relations between the Beresfords and the Gardners deteriorated and they were sacked as factors in March 1876. Then, in September that year, James Gardner, possibly as a diversionary tactic because the new factors were on the point of uncovering the extent of his malfeasance, precipitated a crisis by demanding repayment of his £6,500 loan. When the Beresfords refused to pay, Gardner threatened to enforce his mortgage on the estate and sell it to recoup his debt.

 

Looking across to Ballachulish from the north shore of Loch Leven: the less well known West Quarry is clearly visible on the right.

 

At this point, the Beresfords - who claimed (somewhat naively, perhaps) to be unaware of having signed any mortgage giving Gardner power of sale - went to court to obtain an interdict (Scottish equivalent of an injunction) to prevent him selling, at least until it had been ascertained in a proper accounting what, if any, money was left owing to him after the Beresfords had been credited with the quarry rents he was due them. The Court was of opinion that the terms of Gardner's mortgage over the estate were unusually draconian (probably as a result of the Beresfords' lawyer, George Gardner, having a conflict of interest due to the creditor being his father) and consequently the interdict was granted. Meanwhile, the Beresfords (having presumably engaged a new lawyer) had discovered another nasty surprise in the various contracts they'd signed with the Gardners, this time in the lease of the slate quarry. 

Before they fell out, Lady Beresford had agreed that James Gardner might have a fifteen year lease but when the lease which had been signed was checked, it was found to be for 35 years. The Beresfords therefore raised a court action to have it declared null and void. The court decided that Gardner had fraudulently procured the signature of a 35 year lease but when the Beresfords moved the court for an order evicting him, he responded with the audacious defence that, although the 35 year lease had been cancelled, that still left him entitled to a 15 year one in terms of his agreement with Lady Beresford! Gardner fought that case all the way to the House of Lords before he was finally evicted but however disreputably he may have behaved didn't alter the fact that the Beresfords still owed him repayment of his £6,500 loan. He also made a claim for compensation for upwards of £10,000 he claimed he'd spent on improvements to the quarry including a railway a mile long, new levels and inclines and a pier and buildings. The Beresfords therefore needed to raise money to buy Gardner off and a new tenant for the slate quarries.

This time their plight came to the attention of the local doctor, Donald Campbell. As well being a medical man, Campbell had a coaching business and he did a deal with a business acquaintance in Glasgow, Alexander McKinlay, with whom he dealt in horses in connection with his coaches. In terms of this agreement, Campbell would take the tenancy of the quarry, McKinlay would lend the Beresfords the money they needed to buy off George Gardner and they (Campbell & McKinlay) would share the profits of the quarries. Now, having had their fingers so badly burnt borrowing money from and renting their quarry to a butcher and his lard and tallow merchant son, you wonder if the Beresfords weren't taking something of a risk by doing the same thing again with a doctor turned coachman and his horse dealer friend! I wonder if it was to limit their exposure that they very quickly paid McKinlay back the money he'd lent them to buy Gardner off (£10,000) by borrowing that amount from Lady Beresford's brother, Admiral Lucas. If so, it didn't keep them out of trouble because thirteen years later, in 1892, we find the Admiral's marriage contract trustees (to whom he'd assigned the debt) suing the Beresfords for payment! Sadly, the law reports don't reveal why relations within the family had apparently soured to the extent of litigating amongst themselves but the Beresfords must have managed to refinance once again because Ballachulish Estate remained in their ownership for many more decades.

 

The entrance to the East Quarry is on the left. The houses in the foreground have all now been demolished and the main A82 road now passes over their site beside where the Isles of Glen Coe Hotel is now.
 

Meanwhile, the lease of the quarries to Donald Campbell, the doctor turned coach proprietor, was going without a hitch as far as the Beresfords concerned. But that didn't prevent Campbell falling out with his partner McKinlay over the final division of profits when the lease ended as scheduled in 1893. Remember that Dr. Campbell was the tenant of the quarry but had a deal with McKinlay to pay him half the profits. Campbell also ran a store at the quarry from which he sold goods to the workers and McKinlay claimed that Campbell should have been paying him half of the profits of this store as part of the overall quarry operation. Campbell denied this and claimed it was a separate business McKinlay had no concern with. The ensuing litigation reveals a lot of interesting detail about the operation of the quarry in the last quarter of the 19th century and I can do no better than simply to quote from the judgement:-

“In conformity with the practice of the estate the quarry was wrought by piecework. The men worked in squads of six, and to each squad was assigned a certain breadth of rock, which they quarried and worked into slates. The haulage of these slates from the quarry to the quay was provided by the tenant, who stored them in separate sheds belonging to the respective squads, and each squad looked after the loading and stowing of its own slates on board the ships chartered for the purpose. 

The men had to provide their own quarrying materials, including gunpowder, iron tools, hammer handles, and rope. They were at liberty to supply themselves with these materials as they pleased; but practically, in pursuance of a custom which had prevailed before [Dr. Campbell] became tenant, they bought them at a store carried on by [Campbell] as a separate business, with separate books, and to a certain extent separate clerks. These materials were sold to the men, not at cost price, but at a profit. This business was, however, carried on, and the materials kept in stock, within the [land rented from the Beresfords along with the quarries themselves] with this exception, that the powder was stored in a magazine which was outside [that land], and which does not appear to have been expressly taken on lease by [Campbell]. 

Besides the materials required by the men who were on piecework, the quarry itself required supplies of material for its general working. These were chiefly (1) coals for the locomotive and stationary engines, (2) forage for the horses, and (3) tools for making or repairing the quarry roads and the like. These also were provided by [Dr. Campbell] through the medium of his general business, but they were (subject to a trifling exception) charged to the quarry at cost price.

The [business of the store] further extended to supplying household coal at a profit to the quarry workers at their homes as well as to the general public, and also (to a small extent) supplying the forage. [Campbell] arranged for these supplies being brought to Ballachulish by sea. This was sometimes done by chartering vessels, and sometimes by a steamer belonging to himself, which brought coal and took away slates. This steamer was run as part of the general business, and yielded a considerable profit, but the pursuer does not claim to share in it. 

The quarrymen were paid eight times in the year—every six or seven weeks. At each pay-day those who got supplies of household coal in the interval were debited with it at market prices (and not at cost price), and received the balance of their wages in cash. A considerable profit resulted to [Dr Campbell] upon the coals so supplied during the currency of the lease."

 

A rather grainy picture clearly shows the galleries (levels) in which the East Quarry was worked. Picture by kind permission of Glencoe Folk Museum
 

Other interesting snippets from the court case included that the quarry workers had their tools repaired and sharpened by quarry smiths for which a weekly charge was made. And although no details were given, Campbell had also been convicted of an offence under the Truck Acts (the legislation that requires employees to be paid in money rather than in kind on which the employer might be profiteering). But that said, it's noteworthy that the workers were now, in the 1890s, employees - fifty years earlier, they'd been self employed, paying the estate for the privilege of working in the quarry and selling to it the slates they made.

The case also contains some interesting financial details. In 1878, when Campbell took over the tenancy, the quarry plant (chiefly, the infrastructure - tramways and steam engines etc. - to haul the rock from the quarry face to the shore where it was worked into slates) was valued at £7,584:16s (about £900,000 in today's money). And the rent Campbell paid the Beresford Trustees was £1,000 per year (£120k today) or a half of his annual profits, whichever was higher. The profits in 1892 were £2,605:9s:5d (£330k).

Incidentally, McKinlay lost his case for a share of the profits of the store. The court laid emphasis on the fact that there was no suggestion that the Beresfords were entitled to any of these profits as part of their rent. It also a highlighted a meeting in 1884 at which Dr Campbell had told McKinlay that he had no share of the store profits. There's the delicious snippet that the meeting took place in the back parlour of McKinlay's house in Pollokshields - then as now one of Glasgow's most opulent suburbs - and one can easily picture the pair - whom the judge characterised as "shrewd businessmen" - in a cigar smoke filled room!

 

Dr Lachlan Grant. Photo by kind permission of Glencoe Folk Museum   
 

No discussion of Ballachulish doctors in the courts would be complete without a mention of Lachlan Grant pictured above. When Dr Campbell's lease ended in 1893, the quarry was taken over by a company called The Ballachulish Slate Quarries Ltd (BSQL) which soon acquired its principal competitor, the Easdale slate quarries. In 1900, BSQL appointed a local doctor, the 29 year old Lachlan Grant, as medical officer to their 600 employees (and retired workers) at Ballachulish and their families. As well as an annual salary of £270 (about £33,000 in today's money), Grant was permitted in terms of his contract to have his own separate private practice for local patients other than the quarriers and to hold other medical appointments in the locality but, in both cases, only for so long as he was employed by BSQL. If not, he would have to withdraw from local practice and the rationale behind that was that BSQL would only be able to secure a decent successor if they were able to hold out the prospect of a monopoly on the local medical practice outside the quarry.

But the young doctor quickly turned into something of a thorn in BSQL's side. He sided with the men against their employer and raised concerns about the state of the company's houses - those same cottages which had been so lauded in the Second Statistical Account (page 250) half a century before. In July 1902, just two years after they'd employed him, BSQL decided to dispense with Grant's services but the quarry workers didn't take this lying down. At this point, it's worth quoting verbatim again from the pleadings in the ensuing court case:-

"After it became known in the district that [BSQL's] directors had terminated [Dr Grant's] appointment there was general and widespread indignation, and on 8th July a mass meeting of [BSQL's] employees and others was held at Ballachulish, when resolutions were unanimously adopted expressing regret at the dismissal of [Dr Grant], respectfully requesting the directors to reconsider their decision, and expressing regret that the workmen had had no voice in the matter. 

As the directors adhered to their resolution another mass meeting was held on 15th July, which was attended not only by the quarry workers but by practically the entire population, including landed proprietors, clergymen, and other influential residenters in the district. [Dr Grant] was unanimously requested by this meeting to remain in the district, and a medical committee of the quarrymen, which had been reconstituted at said meeting, passed the following resolution, which was also unanimously approved of by the said mass meeting, and signed by all the members of committee and communicated to [BSQL]—‘We, the medical committee unanimously elected at a mass meeting of the employees of the Ballachulish Slate Quarries, Limited, on 15th July 1902, having learned with extreme surprise and regret that the petition signed by over 400 names, and the resolution of the employees in favour of Dr Grant, have been ignored by the directors, and that they still insist in terminating his agreement, do hereby reserve to ourselves the right of appointing our own medical officer, and hereby give notice on behalf of the employees that they will not allow any deductions to be made from their wages on behalf of any doctor who is not appointed by us.’ At the same meeting the committee nominated [Dr Grant] as their medical adviser. 

[Dr Grant] decided to accept the said appointment, and to accede to the unanimous public demand that he should continue to practice his profession in Ballachulish and district. Moreover, he holds many public appointments in the district, including those of medical officer appointed by the Government under the Factory Acts, Poor-law medical officer under the Parish Council, medical officer to the Lettermore Granite Quarries, medical officer to the Foresters' Friendly Society, Ancient Shepherds' Friendly Society, Friendly Society of Rechabites, and others. It was impossible for [Dr Grant] to terminate his contracts with all these public bodies without occasioning much public inconvenience and incurring considerable pecuniary obligations. 

The directors of [BSQL] are all non-resident. For a long time past [BSQL] have persuaded their employees to sign an agreement authorising [them] to make a deduction from the weekly pay of each employee for ‘the sums to be paid by you (i.e., [BSQL]) on our behalf for medicine and medical attendance.’ ... [BSQL] have no mandate from the workmen to employ any medical adviser whomsoever on their behalf, or to prevent defender practising in the district, and no obligation rests on [BSQL] to provide medical attendance for their workmen. Even if [BSQL] appoint a medical officer they cannot compel their employees to consult him."

 

Looking over the Ballachulish narrows (where the bridge is today) up Loch Leven towards Ballachulish village and Glen Coe. The East Quarry is clearly visible on the hillside in the middle distance.
 

BSQL were infuriated at their rebellious workforce. On 31st July, they had appointed a new medical officer but he couldn't take up his position so long as Lachlan Grant refused to step aside. They therefore went to court to seek an interdict against Grant to prevent him from "carrying on the practice of a doctor of medicine in the said village or district of Ballachulish, and in particular from acting as a medical practitioner or surgeon in any manner of way to the employees of [BSQL] and their families, and the old men who had previously been employees of [BSQL], and their families, in said village or district of Ballachulish."

Dr Grant defended the action but it's important to understand that the court wasn't being asked to arbitrate the dispute or decide whether it was morally right that he be allowed to continue to minister to the quarriers of Ballachulish (nor to reverse his dismissal). The court's job was to decide whether the clause in the contract he had signed whereby he undertook not to practice in the area if he ceased to be employed by BSQL was legally valid or not. It was an example of what's called a "non-compete clause" nowadays and these are legally enforceable provided they're not unduly restrictive in terms of the time and/or area for which they apply: in other words, a clause preventing someone from practising anywhere in Scotland in perpetuity is not enforceable but one preventing someone from practising in a narrower area and/or for a finite period like two or three years could be.

Dr Grant lost the first round of his court battle so he appealed to the Inner House of the Court of Session (Scottish equivalent of the Court of Appeal) where four senior judges headed by the Lord Justice Clerk re-heard his case. But by a majority of three to one they were also against him. In upholding the validity of his non-compete clause, emphasis was laid on the fact that, although it was not limited in time, it was spatially restricted to a very small area, namely, the immediate locality of Ballachulish. (The judge in the minority thought the clause invalid because practically everyone within that small area was known to be clamouring for Dr Grant's services which made the case an unusual one where non-compete clauses were concerned.)


Slates being worked up at the East Quarry. Photo by kind permission of Glencoe Folk Museum
 

The appeal judgement in BSQL's favour was not delivered until June 1903, almost a year after the dispute had broken out. And while the wheels of the law had been grinding slowly in Edinburgh, more dramatic events had been taking place in Ballachulish. BSQL had instituted a lock out at the quarry (the reverse of a strike involving the employer preventing the workforce from working). With no union to provide strike pay, this hurt the quarriers badly and many drifted away to find work in slate quarries elsewhere including at Toberonochy and Balvicar on the islands of, respectively, Luing and Seil south of Oban (but not, presumably, at Easdale which also belonged to BSQL). Others found work building an artificial loch in the hills above Glen Creran to the south of Ballachulish on Fasnacloich Estate which belonged to a sympathetic landowner, the wealthy and philanthropic Tom Bullough. (He was the cousin of Sir George Bullough, the owner of Rum and who also indulged in hydro-engineering there as I described in this post.) Meanwhile, scab labour hired by BSQL to remove unsold stock from the quarry was pelted by the women and children of Ballachulish with broken slates, something of which there was an abundant supply around the village.  

Following his second legal setback, Dr Grant was considering appealing again to the highest court in the land at that time, the House of Lords. The Court of Session agreed to suspend the interdict it had granted preventing him practicing in Ballachulish for two months in order to give him time to arrange his affairs on the assumption that the Lords would also refuse his appeal. And there the record so far as revealed by the law reports abruptly stops. It seems, however, that the appeal to the Lords never happened and that, later in 1903, sense prevailed and the dispute was defused by Dr Grant being re-hired by BSQL. He remained in practice at Ballachulish until he died in 1945, constantly active in the pursuit of social justice. Amongst the causes he championed were the Highlands & Islands Medical Service, established in 1913 and a sort of local forerunner of the NHS (which I touched on this post), and then the NHS itself. You can read a bit more about Lachlan Grant here. There are also two books about him - here and here.

In a final post about Ballachulish, I will describe the decline and fall of the slate quarries but will conclude this one with a final legal curiosty: one of the legal precedents BSQL cited in support of their argument that the non-compete clause in Lachlan Grant's contract was valid was the 1867 case of Macintyre v Macraild. By coincidence, it also involved the contract of employment of a doctor. And by an even more extraordinary coincidence, it was the doctor who attended the Ballachulish slate quarries! Just what was it about the place that turned its medical men into such litigious maniacs? 

 

The East Quarry with the mountains of Glen Coe in the background. Picture credit tanxiaolian91
                   

Thursday, July 30, 2020

Ballachulish Part 3 - the 19th century


In Part 2, I narrated how, having begun at Easdale in the 1630s, slate quarrying remained something of a niche industry until demand increased dramatically in the second half of the 18th century with the onset of the Industrial Revolution and the massive growth in towns. And how John Stewart, the 5th laird of Ballachulish, opened a second slate quarry on his estate around 1780, at Brecklet Farm, to take advantage of the new demand.

Roof tops in Edinburgh's New Town - new demand for slate in the later 18th century. Picture credit Urban Marcen

First, let's clear up names and places. The original quarry opened in the 1690s was on Laroch Farm on the west side of the River Laroch which flowed down Gleann an Fhiodh ("Glen an EE-yuh"). Latterly, at least, these were, in fact, two small quarries side by side. I'm going to call them the West Quarries although they're sometimes referred to as West Laroch Quarry or the West and Middle Quarries. The new quarry, opened around 1780, was on the east side of the river. It was on Brecklet Farm but is rather confusingly known as East Laroch Quarry. I'm going to call it the East Quarry. It was much larger and when it opened, the West Quarries closed although they were re-opened in the 1860s. Finally, there were another two much smaller quarries: Brecklet which lay immediately to the south of the East Quarry and Khartoum (don't know the explanation for that name!) which was about half a mile further south up Gleann an Fhiodh. References to simply "the quarry" can be assumed to be references to the biggest, the East Quarry.

OS 6 inch map. Go to this link and use the "Change transparency of overlay" slider on the left to reveal geo-located modern mapping or satellite imagery under the old map.
       
Resuming the narrative, then, Ballachulish and Easdale both possessed an advantage over other slate quarries: they were beside the sea. In the days before road or rail transport, when the biggest load was as much as could be put over the back of a horse, that meant their product could be more conveniently exported by sea. The transport advantages at Ballachulish were highlighted in the First Statistical Account (scroll to page 499) for the parish of Lismore and Appin written in 1791. After recording that there were "74 families in the quarry, containing 322 souls", it notes:-

"... a great quantity of slates are sent yearly to the north and east countries, to Leith, Clyde, England, Ireland, and even to America. Vessels of any burden can load most commodiously in [i.e. by beached on] fine smooth sand, so near the shore, that they may be loaded by throwing a few planks between the vessels and the shore; and there is little or no swell in the road [i.e. loch]. The quality of slates is thought very good."       

Rock blasted out of the quarries was moved in wagons on tramways to the shore of the loch where it was worked into slates. However, only 15% of the rock ended up as the finished article: the remaining 85% was waste which was tipped into the sea. This gradually formed peninsulas out into Loch Leven along the edges of which were constructed wharves to make the loading of ships carrying the slates away even easier.

The peninsulas formed by dumping spoil into Loch Leven are clearly visible spreading out from the East Quarry. There's a higher resolution version of this photo here.

Around 1840, the output from Ballachulish exceeded that from Easdale for the first time and there's a very full description of the operations in the Second Statistical Account (scroll to page 247) written in 1841. It describes how the quarry was worked in three levels called "galleries". These are clearly visible in the photo below which includes a fourth gallery opened later:-

Levels at the East Quarry. Picture credit John Winkler

To remove the rock from the upper galleries, an inclined plane (ramp) was built down which wagons of rock could be lowered. This is still standing and every time I see it, I can't help thinking what a reliable brake the machinery must have had (a flywheel, apparently, however that works) to prevent runaway wagons crashing spectacularly to sea level:-

The arch was to carry the road to Glen Coe but it has now been bypassed. Picture credit: Martin Briscoe

The Statistical Account also describes the working practices. The quarry was worked by crews of four men, two of whom blasted out the rock while the other two split that rock up and cut it into slates in a sort of production line: if kept supplied by the first two men, the splitter and cutter could turn out up to 2,000 slates a day! The trade passed down from father to son amongst the locals with very few outsiders joining the workforce. This was because the skills needed to be learnt from a very early age.

At work in the East Quarry. Picture credit National Galleries of Scotland

If I've understood the contractual arrangements with the workers described in the 1841 Statistical Account correctly, each crew paid "the master" (which might be the laird of Ballachulish Estate himself or a third party tenant to whom the Estate had rented the quarrying rights) for access to the quarry. The crew paid for the tools and gun powder to blast the rock in the quarry and the master kept up the tramways and wagons to take the rock to the shore to be worked into slates. The master then bought the finished slates from the crews and the net result was that members of the best crews could earn up to £1 a week. That's about £100 in today's money and if it doesn't sound like very much, it was higher than average at the time. According to this paper (page 7), in 1867, twenty six years after the Statistical Account, 70% of unskilled Scottish labourers earned less £30/year while skilled labourers (which the members of the crews were) might expect to earn £47-50/year. As well as the crews, there were various other tradesmen employed (by the master, I think) round the quarry such as carpenters and blacksmiths (to maintain the tramways, wagons and flywheels, I assume) who earned much lower amounts. It seems that the crews also hired temporary extra labour from time to time.

Working the quarry. Picture credit Ballachulish Quarrying Stories

The 1841 Statistical Account also described the quarriers' housing in the villages of West and East Laroch. These are now together known as Ballachulish although that name - which is from the Gaelic Baile a' Chaolais meaning "farm (or settlement) at the narrows" - originally applied to the areas two miles further west on either side of the narrows of Loch Leven where the bridge is now and the ferry used to cross. Anyway, the description in the SA is worth quoting at length:-

Upwards of three-fourths of the men employed in the quarries have their houses on the Bailechelish estate [others lived in what's now Glencoe Village], and the houses are built with stone and lime, and slated. The accommodation in each is three partments, all plastered, with chimnies and grates in the principal one, and an open garret above. To most of them a cowhouse is attached, as almost every man with a family has a cow, which is pastured on the adjoining hill, and also a piece of ground, which produces annually from two two and a half tons of potatoes, as well as a small vegetable garden. A man occupying a house of the best description of those just mentioned, pays of yearly rent for the house, £2:5s; pasture of cow, £1:6s; potato ground etc. 15s; total £4:6s [£4.30 or about £450 in today's money]. ... The fuel used is entirely coals, which are brought in at a moderate freight, by vessels coming for slates.

On the whole, the condition of the quarriers is, in most respects, superior to that of the people in the same station of life in the surrounding country. They are sensible of the advantages which they enjoy, and are an orderly and generally a well-behaved body of men in every respect.    

Quarriers' cottages in West Laroch


East Laroch. These houses have all been demolished now and the Isle of Glencoe Hotel now stands just to the right of them. Note also the wharves formed on the tongues of land formed by dumping spoil in the loch.

Someone who doesn't seem to have prospered particularly from the quarries was the "masters", the Stewarts of Ballachulish themselves. Why do I say that? Well other clan chiefs who'd profited from exploiting the natural resources of their estates in response to the new demands of the Industrial Revolution built themselves sumptuous new houses: I'm thinking of the MacDonalds of Sleat who built Armadale Castle on the back of kelp (chemicals derived from seaweed) profits and the Camerons of Lochiel who built Achnacarry out of increased rents from land let for sheep farming. The Stewarts of Ballachulish, however, retained the relatively unpretentious Ballachulish House, built in the 1760s (to replace a previous house burnt in 1746 in the wake of the Battle of Culloden) and modestly extended in the 1790s.

The west front of Ballachulish House added in the 1790s. Picture credit Airbnb

In 1862, the 7th laird of Ballachulish, Dugald Stuart (note the spelling now with a "u" since the estate passed through an heiress, Lilias, d.1840, the daughter of the 5th laird, who married a Mr Stuart) sold the estate "from pecuniary difficulties" following a brief period of operating the quarries himself after the last tenant's lease had expired. Were these above average earnings enjoyed by the quarriers too high and the rents of their superior dwellings too low? That's just flippant speculation on my part - many Highland estates were sold in the mid 19th century when the families who'd held them for centuries succumbed to debt. But it's worth noting the contrast that, whereas the tenantry of kelping and sheep farming estates like Sleat and Lochiel were driven out by clearance and emigration, the people of Ballachulish Estate retained their jobs in the quarry and their cottages.

A view of the East Quarry by John Guthrie Spence Smith (1880-1951) employing quite a lot of artistic licence not least by making it look more like a chalk than a slate quarry. The mountain behind is the Pap of Glencoe which is not visible from this angle in reality. Picture credit ArtUK

I shall return to Ballachulish in the post Stuart era in a subsequent post.

Tuesday, May 5, 2020

Ballachulish Part 2 - Slate and Murder


In Part 1, I recounted how the medieval Lordship of Lorne had passed from the MacDougalls to the Stewarts in the 14th century then from the Stewarts to the Campbells in the 15th. At both of these changes, the outgoing clan had nevertheless been left with a slice of territory, the Stewarts' being Appin, the land between Loch Leven and Loch Creran. Then, in the mid 16th century, the Appin Stewart chiefs began parcelling out their estate amongst their kinsmen. One of these was Alan Stewart, grandson of the 3rd Stewart of Appin, who in the 1540s thereby acquired Ballachulish Estate consisting of three farms on the south shore of Loch Leven - Ballachulish, Laroch and Brecklet.

Ballachulish Estate outlined red on Aaron Arrowsmith's map of 1807. Note Brecklet at the east end. Laroch is where "Slate Quarry" is marked.

In 1692, the year of the Massacre of Glencoe, the laird was John Stewart, 3rd of Ballachulish. It appears that the tenants of the two eastern farms on his estate - Laroch and Brecklet - were clansmen of the neighbouring MacDonalds of Glencoe which was the target of the Massacre. According to John Prebble's book, soldiers were quartered at Laroch and Brecklet and he narrates a local tradition that one of the soldiers at Brecklet - a Campbell as well - tipped his hosts off the night before the slaughter giving them the chance to escape. The family concerned were named Robertson and note, therefore, how we have members of one clan (MacDonalds of Glencoe) living on the lands of another clan (Stewarts of Appin) and having a surname (Robertson) different from that of their chief (MacDonald) and which is actually the name of an entirely unrelated clan (Robertsons of Struan). This was, in fact, very common and dispels the misunderstanding that the members of a clan all lived on their chief's land and had his surname.

A MacDonald of Glencoe pondering on his identity

Anyway, "in or about the year 1697" the laird of Ballachulish opened a slate quarry on his estate at Laroch. Here's another insight into Highland history: just five or so years after the Massacre of Glencoe - an event emblematic of the usual perception of Highland clans, involving as it does rebellion, feud and slaughter - and the neighbouring chieftain is engaging in the rather more prosaic commercial activity of exploiting the mineral resources of his estate. But this doesn't mean that the Stewarts of Ballachulish had suddenly gone soft. They hadn't - the next laird, Alexander, was out for the Jacobites in the 1715 and 1745 Rebellions and fought at the Battle of Culloden. It's often said that the clan system came to an end at Culloden - as if it continued in full vigour until 1746 and then suddenly vanished in a puff of smoke. It didn't. The Highlands and the clans had been in a state of transition since early in the 17th century and the Stewarts of Ballachulish - looking Janus-like simultaneously one way as martial Jacobites and the other as commercial quarrymasters - encapsulate the transition perfectly.

Kenneth "Og" [Young] MacKenzie, 4th Earl of Seaforth, 1661-1701. Late 17th century Jacobite clan chief par excellence pictured here because he's not wearing the tartan garb you'd expect a clan chief to wear. They lived in two worlds: Highland warlord one moment, commercial businessman dealing with the Lowlands - and dressing that part - the next. Picture credit: ArtUK

The earliest slate quarries in Scotland worked on an industrial scale (as opposed to for purely local demand) were those at Easdale and the neighbouring "Slate Islands" about 10 miles south of Oban. These began around 1630 and an early customer for Easdale slates was the nearby Castle Stalker. Upon slate being discovered at Ballachulish in the 1690s, experienced workers were brought in from Easdale to teach the locals the trade. By the 20th century, buildings in Scotland not roofed in slate were exceptional but in the 17th and early 18th centuries the majority of buildings - even those in towns and prestige buildings like churches and most castles - were still thatched. Thus, it's said there was only one slated house in Greenock in 1712 and only four in 1716. The laird of Gairloch's house was known as Taigh Dige - the Moat House - but when he built himself a new one (pictured below) in 1738, the fact that it was slated caused such a stir locally that it was known as Taigh Dige nan Gorm Leac - the Moat House of the Blue Slabs. 

Flowerdale House, Gairloch

Slate quarrying was thus something of a niche industry until the second half of the 18th century when demand began to increase with the onset of the Industrial Revolution and the dramatic expansion of towns. So much so that, "some time prior to 1760", [See EDIT at the end] John Stewart, the 5th laird of Ballachulish, opened a second quarry, this time on Brecklet Farm to the east of the original quarry on Laroch Farm. Note again the proximity to one of the more recognisable dates in Highland history: 1745. We've already mentioned the Stewarts' involvement in the Jacobite Rebellions and as we're now in the 1750s, no discussion of Ballachulish in that decade would be complete without mentioning the Appin Murder.

I may return to do a separate post about the Appin Murder but briefly for now, the estate immediately to the south of Ballachulish, Ardsheal (see the map at the end of this post), had been forfeited to the Crown due to the involvement of its owner, Charles Stewart, in the 1745 Rebellion. (Despite the laird of Ballachulish's involvement in the Rebellion, he seems to have escaped forfeiture.) Ardsheal was placed under the management of another local landowner, Colin Campbell of Glenure, who acted as the Crown's factor. On 14th May 1752, while travelling from Fort William to Kentallen, Glenure was shot and killed on the road about a mile south of Ballachulish Ferry (where the bridge over Loch Leven is now). Two men were immediately suspected by the authorities: Allan Breck Stewart, who was alleged to have pulled the trigger, and James Stewart - known as James of the Glen - who was Ardsheal's half brother and was alleged to have set Allan Breck up to kill Glenure and assisted his escape.

The Appin Murder was woven into Robert Louis Stevenson's novel "Kidnapped"

Allan Breck disappeared a few days after the murder but James of the Glen was arrested and put on trial at Inveraray before the Duke of Argyll as Lord Justice General and a jury, eleven out of fifteen of whom were Campbells. Amongst the witnesses were the laird of Ballachulish who'd been walking along the road with Glenure moments before he was shot: he testified to the fact that Alan Breck had been in the area in the hours before the murder. The case against James was very circumstantial but he was nevertheless found guilty after what's widely considered to have been a miscarriage of justice. He was hanged at the south side of the Ballachulish Ferry and his body was left hanging in a cage there for 18 months as a dire warning to others who might be tempted to molest officials of the Crown.

The year before the Appin Murder, 1751, witnessed a rather more mundane event in Argyll: the compilation of a new valuation of all properties in the county for tax purposes - the 18th century equivalent of today's Rateable Values and Council Tax bands. I mention this to illustrate again the mixture of the banal and the dramatic in this corner of the Highlands in the 1740s & 50s: from rebellion and murder to slate quarrying and tax revaluations! Despite the occasional mayhem which is what everybody remembers, ordinary life went on. You can view the full 1751 valuation here but below is an extract showing the properties of some notables: at the top are the three farms - Ballachulish, Laroch and Brecklet - comprising Ballachulish Estate. Further down you can see the soon to be late Colin Campbell of Glenure's property and below him is his kinsman John Campbell of Balliveolan: it was Glenure's taking of James of the Glen's farm of Glenduror on Ardsheal Estate in 1751 and giving it to Balliveolan that supposedly formed one of James' motives for murder.

Extract from 1751 Land Tax Valuation Roll from Scotland's Places
Having digressed off into the Appin Murder there, I'll break here and resume the tale of slate quarrying at Ballachulish in the next post. I leave you with a map of the locations mentioned in this post.


[EDIT 6 May 2020 - I think I'm wrong about the second quarry on Ballachulish Estate, at Brecklet, having been opened in the 1750s.

I based myself for that date on the Second Statistical Account (here - page 247) but on re-reading that, the quarry referred to there as having been opened "some time previous to 1760" seems to be the original quarry at Laroch which all other accounts say was opened in the 1690s. Bremner says the second, Brecklet quarry was opened "about the year 1780" and that accords with the SSA which was written in 1841 and speaks of the second, Brecklet quarry having been in operation "for upwards of fifty years". This revision of date for the second quarry rather dilutes my point about about the contemporaneity of the dramatic and the banal but even so ... Sorry.]