Friday, October 21, 2011

Glencripesdale Estate - Part 3

Before carrying on from Part 2, I've discovered another historical nugget in the meantime. Until 1952, MacBraynes ran a cargo steamer to Loch Sunart every 10 days from Glasgow. Called the MV Lochshiel, she called at Glencripesdale amongst a number of other places along the way:-

Scan from "MacBrayne Steamers" by Alistair Deayton which you can buy here
With no pier at Glencripesdale, it was a ferry call involving the Lochshiel lying off and being tendered to by the estate launch. It's an interesting reflection on how small remote settlements used to be served by sea and that the mere fact there wasn't a road to your front door wasn't an insuperable barrier. 

Anyway, back in the 21st century, we'd got to the point where, in 2003, the new owner of Glencripesdale, Hugh Whittle, had developed a plan to restore the estate from the Forestry Commission's 1950s mono-culture forestry plantation back to farming cattle among native broadleaves rather as it had been operated by the Newton family in its Victorian and Edwardian hey-day. Changes to forestry and farming management don't require planning permission (p/p) but Mr Whittle also envisaged a new lodge, an estate worker's house and improvements to the "beached barge" pier, all of which do require p/p.


The three planning applications were lodged with Highland Council in spring 2003 but first, a general word about planning. Applications for p/p are decided by reference to the prescriptions of local plans. A feature of the Lochaber Local Plan 1999, the ruling document for the Sunart area in 2003, was "a strong presumption against" new houses in spots as remote as Glencripesdale with exceptions only being permitted where ESSENTIAL (yes, in capitals in the Plan!) for the management of the land. So there was going to be a heavy burden on Mr Whittle to convince the Council that his plans for the estate justified two houses.

As it happened, the planning officials recommended the estate worker's house and the pier upgrade for approval but not the lodge. Presumably intending to keep his powder dry for a future battle on that, Mr Whittle withdrew the lodge application so that only the estate worker's house and pier went before the Lochaber Planning Committee for the first time on 23 June 2003. On that date, the applications were deferred to a site visit and hearing to be held on 1 September 2003.

Looking west down Glen Cripesdale to Loch Sunart and Ardnamurchan

Come the day, only three of the eight members of the planning committee (including the Chairman and the local councillor, Dr Michael Foxley) turned up for the site visit. But they were accompanied by an impressive array of officials and local worthies for the hearing held in Ardnamurchan High School at Strontian afterwards. Along with delegates from both of Morvern and Sunart Community Councils, these included the prime objector to Hugh Whittle's proposals, Adam Besterman, the owner (but not resident) of Glencripesdale Farmhouse who was doubtless very concerned at the prospect of the idyll of his remote holiday home being spoilt by more houses being built nearby.

Oban local historian Iain Thornber was appointed to speak for the majority of the objectors and the NIMBY-ist humbug advanced against the proposals (including the canard that development prejudices tourism) seemed to do the trick - by a majority of two to one (Cllr. Foxley in the majority, the Chairman in the minority) the committee overturned the advice of its officials and rejected both applications. To judge from the obscurely worded minutes of the meeting (you can access the minutes of all the meetings in this saga here), it would seem that, as regards the proposed estate worker's house, the majority were swayed by:-

inappropriate siting with reference to the cumulative impact on adjacent archaeology, or wildlife conservation issues, the amenity of the potential occupier and the visual impact, particularly from Glencripesdale House. 

That seems to suggest that one new house at Glencripesdale was acceptable in principle but not on the exact site applied for. The refusal to allow upgrading of the "barge pier" is more mystifying:-

due to the adverse impact on existing private access road, as a right of way and the conflict of existing users 

Surely the whole point of the pier was to remove impacts on the private access road to Glencripesdale along the shore of Loch Sunart through the nature reserve and its existing users?   

Looking up Glen Cripesdale from the north west.
Hugh Whittle responded with a two-pronged counter attack: he appealed against rejection of the pier and estate worker's house applications and also, the following year, lodged two new applications for both houses. This time, the planning officials had changed their tune and were now prepared to recommend both houses - i.e. the "estate owner's house" (the lodge) as well as "the estate worker's house". But, crucially, this was provided Mr Whittle agreed to a condition that they only ever be occupied by the owner of or a worker on Glencripesdale and that the estate could never be split up - in other words, so that the houses could never be opportunistically sold off as holiday houses separate from management of the estate.

These new applications came before a hearing of the planning committee on 26 April 2004. Once again, the NIMBYs were out in force: the Area Convenor expressed her concern at the number of letters and phone calls she'd received from objectors;  Adam Besterman, the owner of Glencripesdale Farmhouse, placed himself on record that he didn't trust Mr Whittle's motives;  Whittle's agent retorted that he felt the Council had given unjustified attention to Besterman's objections; a Mr Tom Colville, the owner of holiday accommodation in the area pointed out that there was no need for any more holiday homes in the area; and Iain Thornber, the local historian, was back to point out there had never been a large farm on Glencripesdale. That's an odd view of the history but it fell to Mr Thornber to make what was perhaps the shrewdest suggestion of the day: that the Council suspend the grant of p/p for two years to see how Mr Whittle's plans were coming along - in other words to be sure that the grand scheme wasn't just a ruse he'd lose interest in as soon as the permission for the two houses had been secured.

The shore of Loch Sunart at Glencripesdale
After the public had withdrawn, the planning committee members retired to consider their decision. Contrary to his position the previous year, the local member, Michael Foxley, was now in favour of both houses. This was on the basis that, if Mr Whittle successfully appealed to the Scottish Government (a scenario Cllr. Foxley considered likely), the Council would lose control over the conditions to be imposed.

The decision reached was that the estate worker's house was refused (again, apparently, for reasons of the precise siting of the house applied for rather than the principle of a house at Glencripesdale) but the owner's house (i.e. lodge) was approved provided it was single storey and no more than 2,000 square feet. It was also subject to the occupancy by owner and no sub-division of the estate conditions. To meet Mr Thornber's point, the p/p would not be suspended but there would be regular monitoring of progress with the estate business plan (pretty toothless as the Council couldn't revoke the p/p if it wasn't satisfied with the progress). The details of these and a number of other detailed conditions were to be thrashed out between the planning department and Mr Whittle's agents and brought back to the Area Committee Meeting on 17 May 2004 for final approval.

Lower Glen Cripesdale from the air in 2007

Let's take a breather at this point in this planning marathon to review where we've reached after more than a year:-

- "barge pier" upgrade - relatively uncontroversial - REFUSED
- estate worker's house - controversial - REFUSED
- estate owner's house - very controversial - APPROVED

The meeting on 17 May 2004 received the depressing news that Mr Whittle's agents and the planning department were still a long way apart on the detailed conditions for the house. The committee therefore agreed (somewhat reluctantly, one detects from the minutes) that the house might be one and a half storeys and 3,000 square feet and that, despite the requirement that it be only for the estate owner's use, up to ten weeks holiday letting would be allowed. The frequency of monitoring the business plan was also reduced and it was remitted back to the officials to continue the negotiations.

The next development in the saga was something of a bomb-shell - Adam Besterman brought an action for judicial review of the Council's decision in principle in favour of the house. But he could have saved his legal fees because, in September 2004, exasperated at Whittle's heel-dragging in the negotiations over the detailed terms of the conditions, the Council brought matters to a head by formally REFUSING the application for the estate owner's house.

Adam Besterman's Glencripesdale House - photo credit Gordon Brown
At their meeting on 1 November 2004, the planning committee noted glumly that the Council was now the respondent in three appeals to the Scottish Government (the other two being the pier and the estate worker's house from back in 2003 - remember them?). They were all going to be conjoined in a single public local inquiry and the committee members noted that a specialist planning lawyer from Council headquarters would attend to put their case. The PLI was scheduled for 25 April 2005 but, six weeks before that date, Mr Whittle withdrew his appeals on the basis that his landscape architect had identified less controversial sites for his proposals, these presumably to be the subject of a third round of planning applications. 

Again this post has become too long. I'm going to break here but promise to bring the Glencripesdale planning saga to a conclusion in Part 4. Meanwhile I leave you with a picture of the 5th Duke of Argyll (1770-1806)


Something tells me that, when he planned changes at Glencripesdale in the late 18th century, he didn't have to employ landscape architects to dance to the tune of a planning committee. He probably WAS the planning committee.

10 comments:

  1. I've very much enjoyed your account and comments abour Glencripesdale, and the planning saga. I was an HGV driver with the TA Squadron that blew up the Newton's mansion in 1963 (note, not 1966), and have been researching the area for a website recording some of the Squadron's activities.

    Peter Cox
    (admin@whfh.org.uk)

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  2. Thanks for the feedback Peter - glad you enjoyed it and thanks for putting me straight on the year of demolition

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    1. Dear Neil, I am fascinated to pick up this information on Glencripesdale House. I worked on the property, with Bill and Sue Hemmings when they owned it in 1990. I was a student having just completed my studies in South Africa and was keen to explore Scotland, having come from a Scottish background. The forest was still intact then and it was the most breathtaking environment to explore. It was operating as an exclusive hotel at the time and attracted some very exlusive guests from the UK and USA who were looking for complete privacy. We had no electricity and relied entirely upon the use of wood fires and a generator for warmth and lighting. I worked with them for about 8 months and it was one of the finest times. We used to travel by inflatable boat to Tobermorey, on the Island of Mull, to get our cheese. Great memories!

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  3. How very interesting, my family built Glencripesdale House and owned the entire 26,000 acre estate. My G G Grandfather was Horace Newton, we still own the Isle of Carna there now.

    Kind regards

    Edward

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    1. We are the Hemmings who ran Glen C as a hotel from 1984-1994. Please contact us. It was a labour of love.Bill and Sue

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    2. Hello - how/where do I contact you?

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    3. Thanks for this history. My wife and I spent our honeymoon at Glencripesdale hotel in 1991. Bill and Sue Hemmings were the most charming hosts. Their food was excellent and the walks were stunning. Happy memories. I gather the estate was acquired by a consortium of conservation organisations in 2023 in order to restore the rainforests.

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  4. How interesting I found this account. (So much so that I went on to read several of your blog posts when I should have been doing other things!)
    As a family we stayed in the house at Glencripesdale for three weeks in the 1990s. After a week of heavy rain we enjoyed a fortnight of joy; sailing, boating and fishing on Loch Sunart and out to Mull and walking in the area. My young daughters spent many an hour swimming leisurely up and down in the natural pool by the loch and catching small fish and other creatures, which had a holiday in my cold box before returning to their home.
    The presence of the hotel was still palpable. The kitchen was a stainless steel workroom. I decorated some of my dishes with the few berries remaining from the original berry bushes.
    The forestry track was a nightmare - so much so that during our last week we sailed to the Isle of Mull for supplies. Our Labrador got some strange looks in Tobermory in her life jacket! I remember too poor Holly seeing me in our sailing boat moored in the loch and doggy paddling out to me going around and around the boat and back to shore because, of course, I could not lift her out.
    What could be more enchanting than drifting silently amongst the seal colony in the loch observing their antics. Someone got excited thinking she saw a lot of Labradors swimming around and had to join them. It takes at least two people to retrieve a retriever from the sea and thank goodness for the handle on top of the life jacket.
    We had a great trip out with Andy Jackson from Laga Bay too. Fishing and cooking the catch on board on a BBQ was quite an experience!
    I will never forget my time at Glencripesdale. It is etched in my mind as a magical, lonely, peaceful, blissful place. In all our time there, apart from the resident caretakers, we saw two forestry workers and maybe a walker. So it was strange to learn of the large house standing nearby in previous times with its 100 retainers - and startling to hear of the plans to turn this wilderness into a holiday resort of kinds.
    Thanks for your blog. It made me think fondly of our holiday there but I was also melancholy for past times which will never come again.
    Rosemary Cross
    ( I wondered if my husband’s family might be related to the previous poster named Cross - such are the strange coincidences which occur in life!)

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    1. Hi Rosemary, what a lovely trip you had by the sounds of it to Glencripesdale/Loch Sunart! Not much has changed. If you fancy coming again we let two cottages on the Isle of Carna opposite Glencripesdale, the island is still in the family www.isleofcarna.co.uk AND Andy Jackson who took you in a trip before is our Island Manager and still does boat trips! Best wishes Edward Edward.towers@hotmail.co.uk

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    2. Rosemary Cross
      Thank you. I have looked at the cottages several times but I think we need to be on the mainland as we are ‘oldies’ now. I noticed also that Andy’s boat is still going strong. He once took us out to Staffa using our hired motor boat as the tender and on this we all swooshed in and out of Fingal’s Cave just as Mendelssohn must once have done! Mind that was the expedition when I thought my elderly father was going to fall in the water …

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